Cordyline is a striking and attractive evergreen plant that gradually takes on a tree-like silhouette. Its bold, tropical look and eye-catching architectural structure make it stand out, with a single stem or several branches crowned by thick clusters of long, slender, leathery foliage. Despite being commonly referred to as the cabbage palm, Torbay palm, or New Zealand cabbage tree, it is neither a true palm nor related to cabbage.
To successfully grow and care for cordyline, it’s essential to understand the most commonly cultivated variety, Cordyline australis, which originates from New Zealand. This species typically features solid green leaves, though numerous varieties are available that display variegated, colorful, or multi-toned foliage. The green-leafed types grow the tallest and fastest, often reaching up to 5 meters. In contrast, the more ornamental variegated and colored types grow more slowly and generally stay under 2.5 to 3 meters, especially when grown in pots.
Mature cordylines can also bloom in summer, producing large sprays of tiny, creamy-white blossoms.
Where to Grow Cordyline
Cordyline is a stunning focal point when planted alone in lawns or mixed borders, where its tall, upright form offers a striking contrast to softer, spreading plants. Varieties with green foliage thrive best in full sunlight, while those with colorful or variegated leaves prefer partial shade. These plants should be protected from harsh, cold winds unless grown in mild coastal regions, where they perform well and can withstand salty air.
Cordylines also adapt well to container growth. When placed in a large-sized pot, they can remain in the same container for several years. However, if planted in smaller pots, they may quickly outgrow them and need either repotting into a larger container or transplanting into garden soil.
How to Plant Cordyline
Before planting cordyline in your backyard or home, there are a few important factors to keep in mind:
Sunlight is key: Lighting is essential whether cordyline is grown indoors or outdoors. Outdoor cordyline varieties prefer full sun, while indoor types should be placed in a bright location with indirect light to avoid scorching the leaves.
Know your soil: Although cordylines can tolerate dry soil in a pinch, they thrive best in moist, well-drained soil. A neutral to slightly alkaline pH (around 6 to 6.5) is ideal for healthy growth.
Ensure proper drainage: When growing cordyline as a houseplant, it’s crucial to let excess water escape. Avoid using pots with saucers that trap moisture; allow the soil to dry partially between waterings. To maintain humidity and prevent root rot, place pebbles or small stones around the base of the plant to hold moisture without waterlogging the roots.
Create the right environment: Cordylines naturally prefer warm, humid conditions. Indoors, a humidifier can help replicate their native tropical climate. You can also mist the plant occasionally. However, misting isn’t needed if you’re growing the Red Star variety, as it prefers warm and dry conditions.
Care and Growth
If you’ve planted cordyline outdoors in a region with colder winters, it’s best to transfer the plant into a pot and move it indoors to protect it from frost. Once temperatures rise again, you can either return it to the garden or continue growing it indoors as a decorative houseplant.
Cordylines can sometimes attract pests such as scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs, especially around the base of the plant. To keep infestations under control, treat the plant with insecticidal spray every week or as needed.
The type of water you use can also impact your cordyline’s health. If you notice the tip of the leaves turning brown, high fluoride levels in tap water might be to blame. Switching to bottled or filtered water can help prevent this issue and keep the foliage looking vibrant.
Propagating and Repotting
To propagate cordyline, take 3—to 5-inch stem cuttings from a mature plant. Trim the leaves from the cutting and place them in a shallow bed of sand. Over time, the buds on the stems will develop into new shoots. Once these shoots have grown at least four leaves, they are ready to be repotted.
When repotting, use a potting mix that retains moisture and ensure the pot has a drainage hole at the bottom to prevent waterlogging.
Growing Cordyline: Problem Solving
When grown under the right conditions, cordylines are typically free of pests and diseases. However, if the soil retains too much moisture, the plant may experience rot at the base of the stem.
Frost can also cause significant damage to the plant, deforming the leaves and sometimes killing the upper growing parts. Depending on the severity of the cold, the damage may be limited to the foliage or extend to the stem. In early spring, remove the dead sections by sawing down into the trunk or trimming off the dead leaves once you can clearly identify the dead sections. Cordylines often recover by sprouting new growth from the remaining trunk or from the ground.
Slime flux is another issue linked to frost damage, which appears as a foul-smelling ooze emerging from the damaged area. To manage this, cut away the affected section, ensuring it is removed and moved down to healthy tissue.
Given the right growing conditions, cordylines are generally pest- and disease-free. However, if the soil is too wet, it may rot at the base of the stem.
Frost damage can disfigure leaves and sometimes kill the top part of the plant. The damage may be limited to the leaves or some or all of the stems can be destroyed during severe cold spells. In mid-spring, once it’s obvious which parts of the plant are dead, remove the dead leaves or stem, either sawing down the trunk or cutting off the dead foliage. Cordylines often regrow, and new buds are produced from the remaining trunk or directly from the ground.
Slime flux is a problem caused by frost damage. It is clearly obvious that an unpleasant-smelling ooze develops from the affected area. Remove the affected part of the plant.
